The top of the world
19 Oktober 2008 | India, New Delhi
I find myself yet again in a coffee place with my medium to the world, my laptop, in front of me. My hopes of an internet connection in the most fancy coffee place of Delhi turn out not to have any ground, so this story will be posted later on. After frequent power and water cuts in our Kalkaji flat the internet connection has now permanently been cut off, or at least that is the conviction of the provider. Two of my flat mates are trying to get this fixed at this very moment, so maybe I get to post this story tonight. Probably not. But first things first.
Slowly but gradually an appearance most feared by me has sneaked in my life in Delhi.. It’s something I try to avoid by all means, wherever I am or whatever I do.. at whatever cost.. it’s called routine.
However thriving the life here initially seemed to be, one gets used to Delhi life quickly, or at least I do, and since all is relative four days a week of doing more or less the same job transforms my life into some kind of routine. You, dearest reader, may know that I do not like routine, and therefore some necessary changes are made to keep life vibrating. My job as English teacher at the slum school, however interesting and grateful it may be, will not last the initial eight months, but rather a period of four or five months. In this time span I want to make maximum use of my skills however, which is reflected in my weekly program. During my daily lunch breaks the school principal enjoys private English class with me, I help artists from the community with setting up solicitation letters for international events, and from next Friday on I will teach two physically molested girls at home in order to increase their chances of sustainability in society. The remaining time in India in 2009 will be spent differently, but I will not elaborate on this now.
Anyway, I needed to get out of Delhi for a while, so along with three friends from respectively Poland, Canada and Holland we booked a bus up North to the Himalayas. Busses over longer distance go mainly during the night, what saves time during the day and enables you to sleep during the ride. At least, that is when you are willing to pay a decent fee for it. This we did, so the fourteen hour journey was spent mostly sleeping in the comfy chairs. A mere hour after arrival in Manali we had secured a place for the night and were in conversation with a travel guide who provided treks into the mountains, one of our main aims for the period spent there. And so we left the next morning, fully packed, for a four day trek through the mountains. Our team consisted of a guide, a cook, and two porters who carried the tents.
I must say, the trek was.. incredible. For sure one of the most impressive things I have seen during my life, one of the best experiences so far, and something that will last in my memory forever. Being one with the nature, totally cut off from western modern facilities, without the constant sounds of blowing horns and shouting people, the four days in the Himalayas were a true relief. Every corner along the path you take uphill provides you with ever more impressing sights, camping was done on open spaces that provided relatively flat ground, and the only things that separate you from feeling alone in the world is the backpack of your co-traveler in front of you. Snowcapped mountain tops seem far away the first day and provide an impressive sight from the valley, while two days and 2200 meters of difference in altitude later these mountain tops provide the very soil underneath your feet from where you can see everything. We started off at an altitude of 2000 meters, and after two days and a half reached the 4400 meters mountain pike, which is superior to any point in Europe. We were extremely lucky regarding weather conditions, and so we were walking through snow whilst the sun was providing us a nice tan.
The sights and scenes that one gets to see whilst trekking through the highest mountains in the world are not to be captured in pictures or words, you have to physically go there and experience it all in order to perceive the full impact of nature’s power. Whilst climbing uphill you see the most impressive rough mountains, waterfalls sparkling in the sun, eagles floating on the waves of the wind, and with every step the top that is to be reached gets closer. Apart from these moments of pure compassion with the Himalayas the mountains also provided some less enjoyable features, which are part of the total experience however and therefore not to be neglected.
At night we slept in the most basic of tents, with naught but a crappy sleeping bag to rely upon to counter the night’s freezing cold. The first evening we were still among trees and thus one of the porters facilitated us with a nice warm campfire as soon as darkness set in around six p.m., but after leaving the tree line behind us the second night the warmth of the flames became a distant memory whilst trying to withstand the cold with multiple layers of summer clothing and the one sweater that I had taken along. Food was provided by the guide and his entourage and was of surprisingly good quality. You may know about my compassion for food and the reliance of my body on large quantities, though these needs were surprisingly well met. Just to give you an insight, breakfast consisted of toast with fried eggs, jam and honey, cornflakes with hot milk, and of course a cup of chii (tea), where the latter was brought to us by one of the porters as soon as the sun had risen. Good enough to start the day, I’d say. ;)
Basic facilities as a daily shower were of course not available, though as long as I could brush my teeth with drinking water every day I didn’t really care about these further issues of hygiene. After all, it was only for four days. However, after reaching the top of the mountain on our third day, we found ourselves facing a natural lake embedded within snow-covered mountain slopes. The water couldn’t be colder, though just for the sake of pure (life- ;)) experience, I took a quick dive. Pictures and videos to be uploaded soon. :D
After these outstanding four days, a soak in the local hot springs straight after return, and yet another day in Manali where we visited some random temples our journey took us further to the West, to Dharamsala, the current seat of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government. A visit to the current residence of the Tibetan monks and the museum close by gave me an insight in the horrors which have taken place in Tibet during the last fifty years. My knowledge about this issue was surprisingly limited, which made the visit to Dharamsala all the more insightful. Of course nigh everyone knows about the territorial clashes in the area, with Tibet striving for independence, but the details about what comes close to genocide were revealed only at the very place where the out casted monks took refuge. For sure an issue which developments’ I will follow closely from now on.
The journey back home was half the price of the way that took us up North, which was reflected in the quality of the bus and its seats. The driver maintained a speed which is common on the German highways, though the mainland roads of India lack anything that comes close to a smooth underground. The mere fact that my head bounced against the ceiling of the bus multiple times after yet another pothole in the road should be an indication of the conditions during the ride. But also for this holds; it’s all part of the experience and therefore cherished by me.
By now considerable time has passed since initiating this story; I have shifted places at least three times since entering the coffee place, in order to look for a connection to the world wide web. I even went outside for an internet café, though all efforts remain fruitless up till now. Anyway, I think I have yet again written a considerable length of pages whilst telling about thirty percent of what’s been going on here. Should be good for now though. ;)
I am most grateful for all the reactions posted on my website, a genuine thanks for all who cared to write. :))) It really means a lot to me. Keep in touch!!
A warm hug from still warm Delhi,
Tony
Ps..
@ Knuffelpad: nou dat klinkt als een vrij gildebroeders-achtige stituatie ja.. je mist alleen 1 grote factor met ‘dikke pad’ op de rug ;) Ik heb gehoord dat viv wil gaan samenwonen binnen het jaar.. ik zie mogelijkheden voor een terugkeer naar de gildebroeders.. heheh.. zullen we een x skypen?
@ Jen: yeah it’s a pity we only got to talk decently once.. ah well, who knows I end up in Australia once and we can further converse .. do you’ve got msn messenger?
@ Ons / lennart, Paul, Roy: Tja laffe sjakies dat is dan een mogelijkheid voor jullie incapabele units om je engels op te spijkeren ;) Wel erg hoor dat 2 universiteitsstudenten geen engels kunnen lezen :P :P
@ Olimpia: I tried to call you mountain girl when I was at the top of 4400 meters! I assume you had already left for Greece and changed ur phone number into a Greek one.. which you could give me anyway now :) How are things over there? We should talk soon!
@ Victoria: yeah I’d love to upload more pics.. can only put a max of ten on the website though.. ah, maybe facebook :) When I’ve got time ;) Great to hear from you again!!
@ Ingrid: ah.. rasta.. nah dat zit er niet in hoor.. mn haar heeft alweer een fatsoenlijke lengte bereikt ;) Maarja, dat je over mij droomt is natuurlijk schitterend :D
Details..?
En scriptie.. ik weet wel een oplossing.. jaartje uitstellen.. esn mentor blijven.. en als ik terugkom nog eens oude tijden beleven ;)
@ Amanda: jaa het is hier allemaal prima.. fotos zou ik graag meer plaatsen! Hoe is het met jou??
Slowly but gradually an appearance most feared by me has sneaked in my life in Delhi.. It’s something I try to avoid by all means, wherever I am or whatever I do.. at whatever cost.. it’s called routine.
However thriving the life here initially seemed to be, one gets used to Delhi life quickly, or at least I do, and since all is relative four days a week of doing more or less the same job transforms my life into some kind of routine. You, dearest reader, may know that I do not like routine, and therefore some necessary changes are made to keep life vibrating. My job as English teacher at the slum school, however interesting and grateful it may be, will not last the initial eight months, but rather a period of four or five months. In this time span I want to make maximum use of my skills however, which is reflected in my weekly program. During my daily lunch breaks the school principal enjoys private English class with me, I help artists from the community with setting up solicitation letters for international events, and from next Friday on I will teach two physically molested girls at home in order to increase their chances of sustainability in society. The remaining time in India in 2009 will be spent differently, but I will not elaborate on this now.
Anyway, I needed to get out of Delhi for a while, so along with three friends from respectively Poland, Canada and Holland we booked a bus up North to the Himalayas. Busses over longer distance go mainly during the night, what saves time during the day and enables you to sleep during the ride. At least, that is when you are willing to pay a decent fee for it. This we did, so the fourteen hour journey was spent mostly sleeping in the comfy chairs. A mere hour after arrival in Manali we had secured a place for the night and were in conversation with a travel guide who provided treks into the mountains, one of our main aims for the period spent there. And so we left the next morning, fully packed, for a four day trek through the mountains. Our team consisted of a guide, a cook, and two porters who carried the tents.
I must say, the trek was.. incredible. For sure one of the most impressive things I have seen during my life, one of the best experiences so far, and something that will last in my memory forever. Being one with the nature, totally cut off from western modern facilities, without the constant sounds of blowing horns and shouting people, the four days in the Himalayas were a true relief. Every corner along the path you take uphill provides you with ever more impressing sights, camping was done on open spaces that provided relatively flat ground, and the only things that separate you from feeling alone in the world is the backpack of your co-traveler in front of you. Snowcapped mountain tops seem far away the first day and provide an impressive sight from the valley, while two days and 2200 meters of difference in altitude later these mountain tops provide the very soil underneath your feet from where you can see everything. We started off at an altitude of 2000 meters, and after two days and a half reached the 4400 meters mountain pike, which is superior to any point in Europe. We were extremely lucky regarding weather conditions, and so we were walking through snow whilst the sun was providing us a nice tan.
The sights and scenes that one gets to see whilst trekking through the highest mountains in the world are not to be captured in pictures or words, you have to physically go there and experience it all in order to perceive the full impact of nature’s power. Whilst climbing uphill you see the most impressive rough mountains, waterfalls sparkling in the sun, eagles floating on the waves of the wind, and with every step the top that is to be reached gets closer. Apart from these moments of pure compassion with the Himalayas the mountains also provided some less enjoyable features, which are part of the total experience however and therefore not to be neglected.
At night we slept in the most basic of tents, with naught but a crappy sleeping bag to rely upon to counter the night’s freezing cold. The first evening we were still among trees and thus one of the porters facilitated us with a nice warm campfire as soon as darkness set in around six p.m., but after leaving the tree line behind us the second night the warmth of the flames became a distant memory whilst trying to withstand the cold with multiple layers of summer clothing and the one sweater that I had taken along. Food was provided by the guide and his entourage and was of surprisingly good quality. You may know about my compassion for food and the reliance of my body on large quantities, though these needs were surprisingly well met. Just to give you an insight, breakfast consisted of toast with fried eggs, jam and honey, cornflakes with hot milk, and of course a cup of chii (tea), where the latter was brought to us by one of the porters as soon as the sun had risen. Good enough to start the day, I’d say. ;)
Basic facilities as a daily shower were of course not available, though as long as I could brush my teeth with drinking water every day I didn’t really care about these further issues of hygiene. After all, it was only for four days. However, after reaching the top of the mountain on our third day, we found ourselves facing a natural lake embedded within snow-covered mountain slopes. The water couldn’t be colder, though just for the sake of pure (life- ;)) experience, I took a quick dive. Pictures and videos to be uploaded soon. :D
After these outstanding four days, a soak in the local hot springs straight after return, and yet another day in Manali where we visited some random temples our journey took us further to the West, to Dharamsala, the current seat of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government. A visit to the current residence of the Tibetan monks and the museum close by gave me an insight in the horrors which have taken place in Tibet during the last fifty years. My knowledge about this issue was surprisingly limited, which made the visit to Dharamsala all the more insightful. Of course nigh everyone knows about the territorial clashes in the area, with Tibet striving for independence, but the details about what comes close to genocide were revealed only at the very place where the out casted monks took refuge. For sure an issue which developments’ I will follow closely from now on.
The journey back home was half the price of the way that took us up North, which was reflected in the quality of the bus and its seats. The driver maintained a speed which is common on the German highways, though the mainland roads of India lack anything that comes close to a smooth underground. The mere fact that my head bounced against the ceiling of the bus multiple times after yet another pothole in the road should be an indication of the conditions during the ride. But also for this holds; it’s all part of the experience and therefore cherished by me.
By now considerable time has passed since initiating this story; I have shifted places at least three times since entering the coffee place, in order to look for a connection to the world wide web. I even went outside for an internet café, though all efforts remain fruitless up till now. Anyway, I think I have yet again written a considerable length of pages whilst telling about thirty percent of what’s been going on here. Should be good for now though. ;)
I am most grateful for all the reactions posted on my website, a genuine thanks for all who cared to write. :))) It really means a lot to me. Keep in touch!!
A warm hug from still warm Delhi,
Tony
Ps..
@ Knuffelpad: nou dat klinkt als een vrij gildebroeders-achtige stituatie ja.. je mist alleen 1 grote factor met ‘dikke pad’ op de rug ;) Ik heb gehoord dat viv wil gaan samenwonen binnen het jaar.. ik zie mogelijkheden voor een terugkeer naar de gildebroeders.. heheh.. zullen we een x skypen?
@ Jen: yeah it’s a pity we only got to talk decently once.. ah well, who knows I end up in Australia once and we can further converse .. do you’ve got msn messenger?
@ Ons / lennart, Paul, Roy: Tja laffe sjakies dat is dan een mogelijkheid voor jullie incapabele units om je engels op te spijkeren ;) Wel erg hoor dat 2 universiteitsstudenten geen engels kunnen lezen :P :P
@ Olimpia: I tried to call you mountain girl when I was at the top of 4400 meters! I assume you had already left for Greece and changed ur phone number into a Greek one.. which you could give me anyway now :) How are things over there? We should talk soon!
@ Victoria: yeah I’d love to upload more pics.. can only put a max of ten on the website though.. ah, maybe facebook :) When I’ve got time ;) Great to hear from you again!!
@ Ingrid: ah.. rasta.. nah dat zit er niet in hoor.. mn haar heeft alweer een fatsoenlijke lengte bereikt ;) Maarja, dat je over mij droomt is natuurlijk schitterend :D
Details..?
En scriptie.. ik weet wel een oplossing.. jaartje uitstellen.. esn mentor blijven.. en als ik terugkom nog eens oude tijden beleven ;)
@ Amanda: jaa het is hier allemaal prima.. fotos zou ik graag meer plaatsen! Hoe is het met jou??
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